Most people think of buying furniture as a lasting investment. If you share that goal then you'll be looking for a sofa or chair that will provide trouble-free comfort for years of day-to-day use. You won't want the piece to shimmy or shake when you sit down, develop loose arms, or have cushions that "bottom" out into the frame when you are seated. That's why we prepared this special guide to help you get the most for your money when you go shopping.

Because we don't make furniture, but rather serve many of America's leading furniture manufacturers, we're in a great position to give you objective, accurate information you can print out and use as a quality checklist.

What should you look for? Start by asking about the frame. Is it kiln dried hardwood, layered hardwood, engineered wood or a softwood product?. Hardwoods like oak, alder, ash, birch, hickory and maple, layered hardwoods (plywood), and engineered woods (polymer reinforced composites) have tight grains and hold screws and nails well.

Frame Construction

Look for joints that are reinforced with blocks or dowels (wooden pegs) or mortise and tenon joints (tongue in slot). High-end furniture often has corner blocks that have been glued and/or screwed for added strength. Better yet, look for a minimum number of joints. Fewer joints means fewer chances for failure. Today's advanced manufacturing technology allows many joints to be eliminated by use of CNC (computer numerically controlled) routing equipment.

Most pieces are now stapled or galvanized nail strips with multiple points of attachment are used to provide very durable fastening.

If there is exposed wood (arms or legs) check the finish quality by running your fingers underneath the arms and around the legs. The finish should be smooth to the touch without burrs or rough edges. Legs should either be an extension of the frame, screwed in place, or doweled and glued. Legs that are only glued to the frame may be fragile.

Spring Systems

Springs come in different configurations and a particular type of spring system may be used to achieve an intended purpose. While eight-way hand-tied spring systems are often thought to be the ultimate in quality, flat wire or sinuous wire springs may be used to achieve a sleeker look or to provide a firmer edge near the arm and back if the style calls for it. Sometimes webbing is added with the spring system to create a certain desired ride or to add stability. A quality flat wire system can be just as durable as an eight-way hand-tied system, but often feels less buoyant due to reduced vertical ride and less side-to-side motion. No matter the spring system, the cushioning above the springs is the key to the seating comfort.

In back construction, flat wire, spring bands or coil construction can be equally effective. Unless you are purchasing a loose cushion back design, a back spring system is necessary and should provide a resilient base for the filling materials.

Cushioning Quality Counts

Furniture cushioning affects comfort and durability. Cushions may contain flexible polyurethane foam, layers of polyester fiber batting, down and/or feathers and combinations of the materials. Sometimes individually pocketed steel coils are encased within the foam cushion to provide an extra level of support.

In terms of durable performance, selection of cushioning is key to service life. You may have a solid maple frame that is corner blocked, screwed and glued together, but if the cushioning material is not able to maintain its firmness, support and shape, you will not have satisfactory seating for your home.

Polyurethane foam cushioning has the ability to provide long service life when it meets industry-accepted criteria. With garden-variety (conventional) polyurethane foam, a density (the weight of one cubic foot of foam) of 1.8 pounds or more usually provides satisfactory service. The problem is that finding out the density of cushions can be difficult. Most floor salespeople have no way of knowing. A simple way to ensure quality seating is to insist on having Reflex^® brand cushioning. Reflex^® cushioning is unlike conventional foam. So density is not such an important factor in predicting lasting comfort and performance.

Reflex^® cushions are available nationwide and are used by leading upholstered furniture manufacturers. Cushions with 100% Reflex^® content are backed by a lifetime satisfaction guarantee.

Polyester fiber (either wrapped around foam cushions, layered or blown into cushions as loose material) is often used on its own or in combination with polyurethane foam or other cushioning materials. While polyester fiber can provide a gentle surface feel, the initial feel often changes or disappears quickly as fibers compact. Cushions that contain Reflex Wrap™ instead of fiber can provide a luxurious feel and a cushion shape that should not distort with normal use.

Cotton batting is used rarely in traditional seat cushions, but can be found in futons as the dual-purpose mattress and cushion. Cotton batting is difficult to work with because it tends to compact and change shape. Cotton can quickly show signs of uneven wear. If you select an all-cotton futon mattress/cushion, be sure, if it is tufted, that you will be able to add extra cotton fill as necessary to help maintain the mattress shape. Selecting an all-Reflex futon mattress is a much wiser decision.

Goose down, goose and duck feathers are sometimes used in higher-end cushioning. Goose down has more interlocking fiber and air content than feathers so it can retain shape better than feathers alone. Down and feathers tend to compact and the stuffing may shift or lump up as weight is applied. It may be necessary to "fluff" a down cushion to regain original looks. Down and/or feathers can be used on its own in cushioning and pillows or used as a layer over foam, or blended with fiber (blend down). If you are considering an upholstered piece containing down or feathers, check to be sure there is an interliner and/or fabric backing to help minimize perculation of feather and down quill through the upholstery fabric.

Back cavities are often filled with lose fiber. With this type of construction, back fill can settle or compact. A better approach is to look for compartmentalized back construction, where vertical bags of filling are used to reduce compacting and migration. The best approach is to find a foam filled back. There are specific Reflex^® cushioning products made for this application to match the seat ride and comfort with proper back support.

No matter the construction, it is important that the cushioning be evenly distributed and is capable of concealing the feel of the springs and frame.

Just because an upholstered piece is expensive, doesn't mean it will be durable or comfortable. High-end furniture is still more of an art than a science. Some lines are designed more for looks than use. So you'll need to pay particular attention to durability and comfort features and consider the amount of use that a piece will likely receive when weighing tradeoffs.

Fabric Choice

This is the "art" of furniture buying, and the fun part too! It's your opportunity to express your preferences in color, patterns and textures or even with scent if you choose leather. There are many choices and, with custom-ordered furniture, there may be the option to supply fabric you purchased from a third-party. This is called supplying COM (Customer's Own Material).

Fabrics are generally classified as natural or synthetic. Natural fabrics include cotton, wool, silk and linen. Synthetic fabrics include nylon, polypropylene (olefin, P2), acetate, acrylic, rayon, and nylon. Fabrics that blend natural and synthetic fibers often combine beauty and durability. Leather combines beauty and feel with exceptional durability.

Fabrics with tight weaves and durable fibers like polypropylene or nylon typically stand up to the most active use. More formal fabrics like satins, brocades or damasks are best reserved for seating where practicality is less of a concern. Fabrics that have a pattern woven in tend to resist wear better than those that have a printed pattern.

Depending on how you intend to use the furniture, you may want to investigate factors like how easy it is to clean the fabric and its sensitivity to direct sunlight.

Testing Testing Testing

In the showroom, test the fabric for strength. Unzip the cushion, reach in and try pulling the fabric sample in different directions. The material should not separate. Run a fingernail over the fabric face. The fabric should not separate or show signs of abrasion.

You wouldn't buy a car without a test drive, and you shouldn't buy a sofa or chair without sitting on it. Take your time. Some seating characteristics take a few minutes to come to the surface.

If you watch furniture manufacturers test cushions and seating construction, they sit down firmly, aiming for a back corner or an outside edge of the cushion. Loud creaks, cracking noise or thumps may mean the springs are hitting the frame or are not properly secured. You should have a level seating surface. If you are leaning to the outside, the springs may not be properly positioned or adequately supported to reduce edge roll-off.

Consider bringing a book or magazine with you. Sit in the sofa or chair for 10-15 minutes while reading. If you find yourself hunching forward and slouching, and your weight becomes concentrated on the front edge of the cushion, there is not adequate support.

As you are seated in the sofa or chair, note whether it sits squarely on the floor. The legs should be level with the floor and there should not be any wobble.

Now try lifting a corner of the sofa or chair. With the exception of some European all-foam (laminated flexible and rigid foam construction) designs, pieces that are heaviest are usually going to have better quality frame components.

Examine the legs. Legs that are part of the frame, screwed in place or pegged and glued should provide better service than those that are just glued onto the frame. On a wide sofa, center legs should be included to add extra frame support.

Give the sofa or chair a thorough visual inspection. The piece should look good all the way around, not just from a front view. Seams and welt cords should be straight and symmetrical. Zippers should be straight and smooth. On more expensive pieces, patterns should closely match at seams, along trim welts and on arms and on the back. (Depending on the frame design and pattern, this can be difficult to achieve, requires more fabric to upholster a piece, and generates more fabric scrap that adds to the cost.)